Not All Plasma Cutters Use The Same Torch
Two plasma cutters can look almost identical on the outside but use completely different torches and consumables.
This video shows several common torch styles fitted to real plasma cutters, so you can identify your torch before ordering parts.
Identify My Torch →
Walk into BOC and you can spend anything from “that hurt a bit” to “righto, that’s this month’s profit gone.”
They’ve got:
● Big trade-level machines
● Recognised brand-name gear
● Proprietary torches
● And yes, some cheaper competitive units sitting there as well
Now here’s the part people don’t always think about.
Just because it came from BOC doesn’t automatically mean it’s using some magical, untouchable consumable system.
But it might.
And that’s where you’ve got to pay attention.
Not All BOC Plasma Cutters Are The Same
BOC sells serious trade gear.
They also sell more affordable machines to compete in the 40–50 amp space.
Some units run proprietary torches.
Others run more common torch families.
You cannot assume anything based on where you bought it.
If you’re in Auckland, Christchurch, or New Plymouth and you walked out of BOC with a plasma cutter, the next step is simple:
Look at the torch.
That’s what decides your consumables.
The Consumable Price Shock
Here’s where people get surprised.
Some BOC machines use branded proprietary torches.
Nothing wrong with that.
But the consumables can be eye-watering.
I’ve seen cases where:
One branded tip costs nearly what a whole pack of generic PT31 tips costs.
Not 20% more.
Not 50% more.
Sometimes 10x higher.
Even pushing towards 100x depending on what you’re comparing.
That’s just OEM pricing reality.
You’re paying for:
● Brand
● Distribution
● Trade supply chain
● Support structure
If you’re running high-end trade gear in a fabrication shop in Wellington or Hamilton, that might make sense.
But if you’re in your shed cutting brackets, fixing trailers, or patching rust, it’s worth knowing what torch you actually have.
Do not mix them together.
When I first started, I mixed them without realising.
Hard starts.
Ugly arc.
Tips wearing out way too fast.
Nothing was broken.
It was just the wrong combo.
What Actually Decides Your Consumables
Not the logo.
Not the price tag.
Not the sales counter.
The torch on the end of the lead.
Pull the cap off.
Look at the tip.
Look at the electrode.
That’s the truth.
Most Competitive Units Fall Into Two Torch Families
If you bought one of the more affordable BOC plasma cutters, chances are it’s running one of these:
● PT31 / LG40 (scratch-start)
● AG60 (pilot-arc)
Not every single BOC machine uses these.
But a lot of the competitive 40–60 amp range does.
And if that’s what you’ve got, you don’t need proprietary pricing.
If The Tip Pushes In → PT31 / LG40
Take the front cap off.
If the tip:
● Pushes in
● Doesn’t screw in And the electrode:
● Is double-ended
● Can be flipped around
You’re running a PT31 / LG40 scratch-start torch.
Simple.
Common.
Cheap to maintain.
Used on heaps of Chinese-built machines sold through different retailers.
If The Electrode Screws In → AG60
If instead:
● The electrode screws into the torch
● The tip screws in
● The electrode isn’t double-ended
You’ve got an AG60 pilot-arc torch.
Different internal setup.
Different consumables.
Often found on slightly higher spec units.
Scratch-Start vs Pilot-Arc – Same Physics
Scratch-start means the torch must touch the steel to start the arc.
Pilot-arc fires inside the torch first, then transfers to the metal.
Doesn’t matter if you’re in Dunedin, Tauranga, or Whangārei — the physics is the same.
Ignition type affects how it starts.
Torch family affects what parts fit.
We Don’t Specialise in Proprietary Trade Torches
Let’s be straight.
We don’t specialise in fully proprietary brand-name torches.
If your machine runs a unique sealed-system OEM torch, that’s not our lane.
What we do stock properly are the common torch families:
● PT31 / LG40
● AG60
● Other generic torch types
The stuff most NZ sheds actually use.
Struggling To Cut? It’s Not Always The Consumables
If your BOC plasma cutter feels weak, don’t immediately blame the torch or the parts.
Settings matter.
Air matters.
Technique matters.
I covered that properly here:
👉 Why Is My Plasma Cutter utting Like Shit?
Worth reading before assuming the machine’s the problem.
The Real Takeaway
BOC sells a wide range.
Some machines are full trade-level gear with proprietary consumables.
Some are competitive units using common torch families.
The only way to know what you need is to inspect the torch.
Identify it.
Match the consumables.
Don’t overpay if you don’t need to.
And don’t guess.