You walk into Mitre 10.
See a plasma cutter on special.
Looks decent.
Price isn’t stupid.
You think: “Yeah, that’ll sort the trailer.”
You get it home.
Plug it in.
Pull the trigger.
Bloody hell — it actually cuts. You’re happy. Then mid-job one weekend…
Tip dies.
Arc turns ugly.
Cut quality goes to crap.
And suddenly you realise something:
The box never clearly told you what consumables this thing actually uses.
Classic big box store move.
They sell you the machine.
They don’t explain how to keep it alive.
The Bit No One Mentions
If you walk back into Mitre 10 and grab replacement consumables off the shelf…
You’ll probably pay more than you need to.
Big retail stores are convenient.
They’re not cheap.
And half the time, you’re still guessing whether you’re buying the right parts anyway.
So before you start throwing money at blister packs, you need to know one thing:
What torch is actually on your plasma cutter?
Torch Type Matters More Than Brand Name
Mitre 10 sells different brands.
Different models.
Different rebranded Chinese machines.
Consumables are chosen by torch type.
Not by brand.
Not by what the sticker says.
If you don’t identify the torch first, you’re guessing.
And guessing gets expensive.
Most Mitre 10 Plasma Cutters in NZ Use One of These Two
Not all.
But most machines I see floating around Kiwi sheds fall into:
● PT31 / LG40 (scratch-start)
● AG60 (pilot-arc)
Let’s work out which one you’ve got.
If The Tip Pushes In → PT31 / LG40
Remove the front cap.
If the cutting tip:
● Pushes in
● Does not screw in And the electrode:
● Is double-ended
● Can be flipped around
You’re running a PT31 / LG40 scratch-start torch.
This is extremely common on budget and mid-range plasma cutters sold through Mitre 10.
Same torch.
Different sticker.
Standard vs Extended – Match Them Properly
PT31 / LG40 consumables come in:
● Standard length
● Extended length Both fit the same torch body.
But you must match them correctly.
Standard electrode → standard tips Extended electrode → extended tips
Mix them and you’ll get:
● Hard starts
● Ugly arc
● Tips dying fast
I’ve done it.
It wastes time.
What “Scratch-Start” Means
Scratch-start means the torch must touch the metal to start.
Pull trigger.
Tip touches steel.
Lift slightly. Arc starts.
No pilot arc inside the torch.
Simple.
Cheap.
Very common.
If The Electrode Screws In → AG60
If the electrode:
● Screws into the torch
● Is not double-ended
And the tip:
● Also screws in
You’ve got an AG60 pilot-arc torch.
These are larger and clearly different once you’ve held both types.
Put them side-by-side and you won’t confuse them.
The confusion only happens when people shop using the brand name instead of checking the torch.
What “Pilot-Arc” Means
Pilot-arc means the torch creates a small arc internally before transferring to the metal.
You don’t need to touch the workpiece to start cutting.
Better for:
● Rusty steel
● Painted steel
● Mesh
● Dirty material Different ignition system.
Different consumables.
AG60 parts will not fit a PT31 torch.
Quick Reality Check – It’s Not Always The Tip
A lot of people blame cheap consumables.
But half the time it’s airflow and post-flow settings doing the damage.
If your tips are burning out too fast, read this:
👉 What Is Post-Flow Time on a Plasma Cutter and Why Does It Matter?
Most beginners don’t even know that setting exists.
Once you understand it, consumables last a lot longer.
What Consumables Fit?
Push-in tip + double-ended electrode → PT31 / LG40 consumables
Screw-in electrode
→ AG60 consumables
That covers the majority of Mitre 10 plasma cutters in NZ.
Check the torch.
Match the family.
Then buy parts.
Not the other way around.
Final Word
Mitre 10 sells the machine.
You’re responsible for knowing the torch.
Ignore the sticker.
Look at the front end.
Once you identify the torch type, everything gets simple.